TMB Stage 1: Notre-Dame de la Gorge to Les Chapieux
Quick stats: 11.1 mi · +4,413 ft · high point Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479 m / 8,130 ft) · moving time 8h35 · strenuous
Route
Climbs steadily through two passes — Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m) first, then the higher Col de la Croix du Bonhomme. Gradual early on, brutal in the second half: loose rock, lingering snow, creek crossings, mud, and repeated false summits.
Water sources
Last reliable refill before the climb is Refuge de la Balme. A stream and the hut at the col also had water running from snowmelt in late June.
Where to stay
Hôtel l’Autantic, Bourg-Saint-Maurice, reached via taxi transfer from the trailhead area.
Conditions and gear
Slushy, slippery snow patches in late June — no microspikes needed, but poles help a lot, especially on the descent. This is also the stage where an overpacked bag hurts most; lighten up before Stage 1 if you can.
FAQ
How hard is TMB Stage 1 (Notre-Dame de la Gorge to Les Chapieux)?
Strenuous — it’s the toughest climb of the loop for many hikers, with over 4,400 ft of gain and repeated false summits in the second half.
Do I need microspikes for TMB Stage 1 (Notre-Dame de la Gorge to Les Chapieux)?
Not required in late June, but expect slushy, slippery snow patches near the high col. Trekking poles help more than microspikes here.
Where’s the last water before the climb on TMB Stage 1 (Notre-Dame de la Gorge to Les Chapieux)?
Refuge de la Balme is the last reliable refill point before the final push to the high col.
Read the story: Stage 1 — Notre-Dame de la Gorge to Les Chapieux (journal)